Price Surprise from a Manufacturer’s Point of View

Part 1

My instinct for self preservation must be in full gear as I keep hearing the word “the bearer of bad news gets shot first” buzzing in my head repeatedly as I am putting my thoughts and feelings in my writing today.

Yesterday, I finally received the email coming from one of the buyers, our design team had spent months doing product development and tweaking the designs to come up with new collections specific to this buyer’s description and profile. This was the same buyer, who had asked us if our company can guarantee that we only supply nickel-free, lead-free and cadmium-free metal components and that all our resins are phthalate-free. The very same buyer who has asked us if our company practices fair trade and that if they can send an agent to inspect our factory, all of which we replied with a YES.

Portion of the email read like this…

”Thank you for your follow up and pictures; I really appreciate your help and responsiveness.  Actually, we have been rethinking our costs and this is the reason too why I needed more time to reply back. And unfortunately, we come to realize that we can not make the items at the costs you have be feasible for us. I know that you have really tried hard to address the cost issue many times. But some of our vendors have responded to us with almost a third of your costs and so maybe your company is just too expensive for us, and maybe rightfully so as you have nice items but we just can not make it work for us.”

There is nothing wrong with this email, and being in the fashion jewelry manufacturing business for 13 years now, this is also not my first time to encounter such type of client.

What irked me though is that, right at the onset of this engagement, I have asked this client the following standard questions which would guide us as designer and manufacturer to come up with specific items to fit their requirements:

             1.) What sort of items are you looking for in terms of design, materials and colors?

             2.) Which season will you be launching the collections? Spring, Summer, Autumn, Winter? Are the items for day or evening wear?

            3.) Who is your target market for these designs? Are you positioning the items for low end, mid end or high end market?

            
                 And last but not least,

            4.) What is your maximum target price point for the items (necklace, bracelet, earring etc) you are inquiring from us?

We were told that they wanted to launch items made of fresh water pearls which can be mixed with any other materials. Target price for a necklace should not be more than USD 10 and the bracelets and earrings are expected to be much less. Likewise, we were also told that we can offer any designs whether it is for evening or day wear, as long as it is based around these parameters. The client also showed us some photos to give us an idea on what sort of designs they are looking for.

The next weeks were followed with several emails to the client containing images of our designs carefully selected based on their guidelines.  The client promptly replied positively and has in fact picked a few pieces from the images sent, then came the silence for the next 2 weeks. The silence was then followed by the bomb… the most recent email, excerpts of which I have posted earlier.

Now, injustice assumes so many faces and forms. I think this is one of it.

One of the biggest fears of designers is to have their designs copied and manufactured elsewhere without any hint of recognition from the consumer who the real owner of the creative work. The fashion industry is incestuous this way and surprise, surprise, it’s not just the small players who does this. Big players and big brands do this too… why else do you think lawsuits concerning infringement of designs are always in season?

Now, back to this client, I have yet to reply to the email and I have a few thoughts of what and how to reply to her.

Option 1: I can reply negatively and tell her exactly how unfair she is. After all, we have laboriously complied with all that was required from us.

Option 2: I could politely reply and say, “thank you we understand” and move on.

Option 3: I could explain to her what makes our items priced the way it is and why it is not “a third” of the price we quoted.

Option 4: I could ignore and pretend I did not receive her email.

Believe me; I am tempted to go for option 1. I think that even if I lash out, it would still be a justified anger.

But, that’s not who I am as a person and it serves me no other purpose than venting out negative thoughts and feelings. I think I deserve better than filling my day with negativity. Besides, the optimist inside me cannot help but look forward to the brighter side of things.

For instance, there is a big difference in price with seemingly similar looking components. A brass-based metal chain versus an iron-based metal chain of the same design would look exactly the same when both are electroplated with the same plating color. However, brass-based chains are priced five times more than iron-based chains. Why? Well, brass does not corrode and rust while iron does. Most iron based components contain nickel too. Fashion jewelry made of copper or brass based chains or other metal components last longer, safer and do not smell. They stay longer on the shelves and definitely consumers would be able to repeatedly wear and enjoy the fashion piece.

Now don’t get me wrong, there is a market for iron-based components---stylish, cheap and disposable fashion jewelry will never ran out of avid fans. However, as a designer and manufacturer, we also have the option to choose what sort of product comes out from our factory and which market will these products be intended for. Options, it simply is one of my favorite words.

So, my final reply to this client? Oh I don’t know, I’m still weighing my options actually.

Despite the injustice in this world, the universe has its way of balancing out. I still believe in reaping what you sow and I simply trust that this client will know soon enough how wrong it was that she let us slip off her grasp.

That’s me talking, venting out in my writing, dusting off with my head held high, back standing straight and feet planted firmly on the ground…. peace!

How about you? Have you encountered similar incidents with your clients?

On my next article, I’d like to share how and when I think it’s okay for a buyer to say NO because of price issue. Talk to you soon…

Walking down the Aisle...

We are now preparing for a bridal fair. Of all the projects I get commissioned to do, working for a bridal collection is one of my favorites. There is something deeply magical and emotional about weddings and it is such a privilege to be part of one of the most important events in somebody’s life. Unless you are tying the knot under duress of no less than a high caliber shotgun, most marriages, as a lot of people say, is still made in heaven. I believe this because mine is. Ten years of marriage and I still believe I married a prince although there had been times when my prince charming has been a scrawny little frog himself. There is a lot of metamorphic process that a person goes through in marriage. You can turn a frog into a prince or from a frog, well, to a bull. And as for the brides, one starts out as a princess that will eventually turn into a queen or to that of an evil witch. What makes one instead of the other is an entire alchemy subject whose formula I don’t have. Sorry, but I am neither a self help guru nor do I pretend to be one.

While wedding ceremonies seemed celestial in nature, the whole preparation itself is more earth-bound than one starry-eyed bride might think. Often this involves a long, looong process. In fact, I have known of girl friends who dream of their wedding day since 5 years old. Others even keep clippings of wedding pictures to guide them through their final choices. While the entire ceremony in itself takes less than a day, the preparation in a lot of instances, takes more than a decade.

It is no surprise that one would go through all the lengths in order to make this one momentous event as perfect as it can possibly be. The details involved in the preparation starting with the theme, to the flowers, decors, gowns and what have you is just so dizzying. We rejoice with the many options available to the most discerning and even quirky, peculiar couples, yet at the same time, the endless choices can be too confusing.

How one finally decides getting a mint green motif instead of say, sage green is a long well thought of scientific or in large part “just because I want” process which sometimes entails a lot of heartaches, arguments, and disappointments.

And so, with this in mind, you can imagine how extra challenging designing for a wedding collection both for bridal accessories and keepsakes can be. Pleasing the couple as well as the extended families in tow is a major, major task. And that’s just the quest I and the rest of my team are currently engaged in. Talk about self-imposed stress.

A few weeks ago, we’ve met with no less than the force behind Mandarin Oriental’s “Our Wedding Proposals” bridal fair. It was a serendipitous engagement because we initially contacted them for our corporate giveaways and it just so happened that they were cooking up a bridal fair at that same time. After seeing some of our samples and understanding our capabilities, they gave our team the exclusive privilege to showcase the bridal accessories and giveaways.

Our task was to come up with bridal accessories and giveaways grouped into 4 themes. The themes are: Oriental, Filipiniana, Traditional and Modern. If I was asked to define what these were, 20 years ago, I would be dumbfounded. But now, I’m simply glad that my training and designing backgrounds are sufficient to give these themes a decent interpretation and distinction. I have attached here photos of some of our works.

One good feature we offer brides and grooms is our customized design capability. With a vertically integrated full manufacturing company backing us up, I must say that there is very little that we cannot possibly do. One has just to imagine it and we would most likely be able to execute it. One interesting project we did many years back was to replicate the exact same tiara worn by Ms. Victoria Beckham during her wedding. Of course, it was a one piece deal and we had to mobilize our most skilled artisans. Likewise, the cost of in-laid Swarovski crystals alone was astounding. But hey, one gets to marry only once (for most cases) right?

All in all, it was one of our grandest and most interesting projects we’ve ever had, likewise, we definitely had one happy bride walking down the aisle. I am not sure though if I can say the same for the groom who paid for the bill. Hopefully his little tiara investment is a good start to turn his princess into a queen.

If you are in the look out for wedding accessories and giveaways, you might want to check us out during the “Our Wedding Proposal” Bridal Fair at Mandarin Oriental Manila on March 20 to 21, 2010. Or call or email us to set an appointment with our ARTIZANS Bridal team at mobile no. 0922-8699911 or email info@artizans.bz

Little Loves

The holidays are not officially over till the Chinese says “Kung Hei Fat Choi!”. That’s Chinese for Happy New Year!

This year, we are celebrating Chinese New Year on the same day as Valentines Day—February 14, 2010!

With 2 special affairs happening on one single day, I can’t help but wonder what this day holds for us. You see, with 2 very active boys living under the same roof, every day is simply a day for new adventures for us. There is no such thing as a routine or boring moment in our household except, of course, when the boys are in school or if they are sound asleep.

As long as both are present and wide awake, we are all in high gears as if preparing for a siege about to happen anytime soon. I mean this in a good way of course :) I am always reminded of the energizer bunny commercial every time I see my little tikes doing what they do best… jumping, running and kicking around. If you have boys below the age of 10, I think you know exactly what I mean.

Mine are aged 5 and 8, and for me, this is just the perfect age for some top notch raucous! I guarantee you, between my 2 boys; they can start a riot just with their sheer combined energies.

At home, there’s simply no way of telling what might happen on any given hour of the day. It can be as consternating as our adopted feral cats scampering for dear life with my spunky little Karlo hot on its tail OR seemingly docile as mommy’s little trinkets re-born with a twist as our boys take their hands in designing, taking things apart and putting them back on in a totally different way. I must say, each time they’d do this, somehow, there seems to be extra parts that get left behind ready for a new project to be made. I don’t even know where these parts come from. If there is such a thing as multiplication of “bread and fishes” in this time and age, this is our home version.

Innocent, harmless pens get converted to rocket ships; cookie cans becomes valued treasure chests, clothes hangers to swords of knights and kings of York. Karlo would say he is the king and sometimes, the knight or even both and his older brother—Khalil gets to be the jester…Oh boy, and that’s the start of the real fight! And since I have time and time again refused to buy them toy guns, somehow they found a way to make it on their own, using papers and card boards. Origami takes a totally different meaning in our house.

Well, I’d like to think that being raised in a Christian family, Karlo is not really vent on mangling the cats. In fact, when asked why he’d chased them, he’d give you his sweet innocent look and say “I just want to play with them but they won’t have me!” Poor cats, they just can’t see past the danger of getting mobbed and run over by my 5-year old to realize his good intentions. And for my trinkets, well, I can rejoice that somehow my creative genes have wormed its way to my children. What a blessing!

With the 2 boys now able to tinker with their hands and their creative abilities starting to get apparent, no special event pass us by without getting something special from either one of them. Our recent treats were the ones they gave us last December.



Aren’t these just adorable? Whose hearts would not melt when given such symbols of love? The hours of hard work and careful attention is evident by the details they labored into each piece. My husband and I are just overwhelmed and humbled for the care and love shown through these master pieces.

And talking about love, I have included here the list of my 10 little loves which I’d like to remind myself over and over again.

They say, one can count sheep to get to sleep, I’d say, its better to count our blessings. This is in random order as I cannot quite decide which one I love the most.

1.)I love the smell of coffee that my husband brews for me almost all of my mornings.

2.)I love the feel of warm breaths as I wake up to a little jumbled mass of humanity, limbs entwined of our family of 4. The kids have their own rooms but somehow during dawn, they’d find their way into our room and into our bed.

3.)I love to tinker with my hands, creating things big and small. There is a feeling of exhilaration that I cannot quite explain seeing an object transform according to how I envision it to be.

4.)I love spending quiet time with GOD, with myself, with my family, with my closest friends, with my books and with my garden. I find it extremely important to find a place of refuge, my sanctuary when the cares and concerns weigh me down.

5.)I love getting together with friends and family specially those I have not seen for years. It’s nice to recall good old memories and then creating new ones for the future.

6.)I love getting presents specially the ones that clearly shows and represents the giver. I specially love the little gifts that my husband and children prepares for me. My husband is a genius in giving me well thought of surprises.


7.)I love challenging myself to learn new things. I remembered entering the working world not knowing how to type, much more use a computer. But then one month into a typing computer program and guess what? I learned! Sure it was hard as “old dogs are harder to teach new tricks” but this “old dog” is not beyond learning. No grand ceremonies, but I sure felt good inside.

8.)I love anything and everything beautiful and that includes music, art and fashion. I’m not really on the quest of acquiring more but I relish the opportunity to understand how society is transformed through these media. I like the idea that I have something to contribute no matter how seemingly little it may be.

9.)I love anything healthy and worthwhile, may it be in the food I eat, the products I use or the entertainment I indulged myself in. I like feeding my body and my soul with things that gives it life. I am not about to waste the gift of life and salvation that Christ, my Lord and King suffered on the cross for me.

10.)I love supporting a good cause and of standing up for issues and principles that I truly, passionately believe in.

There, I have more to include but these are on top of my list right now. And I am pretty sure that right after the Valentines Day, I have more to add. I am very much looking forward to it right now : )

Kung Hei Fat Choi and Happy Love Day everyone!!!

DESIGNER SYNERGY

Working with seven other designers is both a privilege and a challenge for me. Each designer has his or her own design approach, taste, and aesthetics. To get them to work together or individually on a thematic collection requires a certain type of skill comparable to that of a politician about to run for the presidential post. The question “How do you get an entire nation to vote for you?” in design lingo might as well be said as “How do you get these designers to work for a Jurassic-inspired collection?” The parallelism is so uncanny. The arms twisting are replaced with the more subtle goading and haggling though….and yes, much like in politics, cash rewards do work.

The first time I took my post as Head for Design and Development, I remembered it to be quite a painful, emotional roller coaster for me. Though it helped that most of my designer-colleagues had worked with me with a previous employer, still, the idea that they now report to me for design approval is quite daunting.

As a designer myself, I really believe in my heart that each designer thinks that their design is the best there is. And because art is highly relative, I must agree to this. What looks good with one might not look good with another. One’s trash is another’s treasure.

It is in this realm of so much relativity that I tread with great care. As Head of Design of a commercial fashion jewelry company, I look at designs not just in terms of creative expression but in consideration of more practical parameters—cost, materials, color relevance for the season, time and the capability to be mass produced --- in short, marketability and viability of the product.

Much like giving birth, each new design creation shows the same promise and potential of a newborn child. Hence, it is quite devastating that a design, one labored for several weeks, land in the “not approve for development” section. The bearer of the news and verdict, I, becomes instantly unpopular. I am just glad that except for dagger-looks and a few episodes of cold war, those were just the extent that the embattled designer had gone through.

Now I understand why it is not surprising at all that a lot of politicians are not keen in pointing out the mistakes and failures of their constituents especially when election time is coming. As the famous Beatle’s song goes, “honesty is such a lonely word”. With my post, I deal with honestly more often that it is for my own good.

Seeing the dwindling number of friends at work due to rejections of designs, I came up with the idea of vetting designs. What we basically do is for the designers to lay out on the table the first piece they make in a collection. They must not name who made the collection. This first piece is then presented to every member of the design team where each one would make his or her comments and suggestions.

Prior to the vetting, certain rules are put into place. Comments must not be personal but must only pertain to the design or the piece presented. Comments must be constructive and must be aimed at improving the product. Price will also be determined at this stage and everyone must assess if the product can be sold based on its price. If the price is too high, we then replace some of the expensive materials or tweak the design a bit to bring down the cost. The mathematics involved in computing the price is simple but to analyze how a design positions itself in the market is not.

I used to dread having to reject or alter someone else’s design. My comments, no matter how well crafted, are always viewed as a personal rejection. With group vetting, however, everyone has the chance to say something including the designer himself or herself. Thus, it becomes a much healthier exercise for the group. It definitely fosters cooperation as there had been times when 2 or 3 designers collaborate on a design. This collaborative work has also determined and made use of what each designer is really good at.

One designer for instance is really good at combining colors. I have observed that even prior to the vetting, the other designers would defer to this designer to assess the palette of the newly developed piece. What used to be me, mine, and myself way of doing things has now become all and everyone’s masterpiece.

Indeed this strategy has worked so well that this is now our standard protocol.

A lot of people has approached and asked me what our secret is for our fashion jewelry line to thrive despite the economic crisis. Well, there’s really no single formula but product design definitely contributes much. I am just so blessed to be part of a team of designers who individually possesses innate outstanding creative talents that when put together produces meaningful, relevant, and world-class designs. To me, that’s the Designer synergy at its best!

Photo Credits: Cave Woman; Wired Ring; Hammered Cuff; Copper Disc Earrings

My Inspirations...

“What inspires you to create a design or to write about something?”

I’ve been asked this question countless times and while this seemed like a good question to ask somebody whose main source of livelihood depends heavily on art and creative work, my answer is actually not outstanding. In fact some would say, too generic.

My usual answer would be “anything”. This is not a conspiracy answer among artists, believe me, nor do I want to sound mysterious to haggle for attention. The truth is, as boring and as plain as it may sound, anything and everything inspires me.

There was a time in my teenage years when the confusion and struggles both in my school and family life prompted me to pour out my soul through my sketches. Sketches, doodles, scribbles… mostly incomprehensible - were my lifeline to sanity back then.

I remembered vaguely that I was vying for the top honors in school then and boy, people in the provinces, really takes these things so seriously. The teachers handling our class were torn between the two competing students. I remember one serious talk with one of my teacher-advisers as she detailed to me my class standing.

I garnered second in the end, but looking back, the lessons learned on struggles, survival, victories and losses are all so surreal --- worthy of a local FAMAS Award. Now if only I can get Judy Ann Santos to play my role.

Then at another time and place, one evening, heavy with my first child, I just could not get myself to sleep. Perhaps it was some crazy hormonal imbalance kicking, I found myself turning and tossing, feeling so depressed and for no reason at all.

To get me occupied and quell the strong urge to bother anyone else (poor husband!), I found myself painting in acrylic this serene and peaceful picture of a blue house. I finished this “master piece” at 4 am. I guess that was my own artistic way of pacifying the turmoil raging inside of me. I am proud to say that aside from the big heavy eye bags, and the sore achy back, no other collateral damage had been done.

When my two boys were aged 3 and 5, I considered that to be by far, the most chaotic family situation we ever had. I found solace in the scrapbooks and journals, and of little “Dear Khalil” and “Dear Karlo” notes I neatly compiled for my sons. Perhaps someday when they are old enough, they would understand through my own little chronicle of their adventures and mischief of just how uniquely special and wonderful both of them are.

In my career as fashion jewelry designer, some four years ago, I came across a client who brought us 3 pieces of designer necklaces and asked us to come up with 25 collections in one month. Our only inspirations were the 3 necklaces she left us. Talk about stress and pressure!

Pressed with a deadline, it’s amazing how much creative juices flow to come up with the most sought-after pieces. I have posted a picture of one of my favorite works borne out of that one-month creative sojourn.

So as if on cue, as if history is repeating itself, here I am again, faced with a 2 month deadline to come up with 45 collections of designer pieces to showcase in one of the major fashion jewelry tradeshows.

My inspirations for this gynormous endeavor? ….I am not looking far…I’d like to share with you some snap shots of the corner stone of my collection….my kids artworks! It’s unrestrained, unmindful, carefree, happy, expressive, head turning, and one that simply calls for attention, just exactly what I want our next collection to be.




Overall, I must say that my creative output is very much influenced by my state of mind, emotions, life situation, and maturity as an artist. And oh, I must include my understanding of my client’s needs and goals.

Nowadays, I don’t see myself doing childish doodles anymore, but like exactly what I am doing right now, writing this blog, announcing to the world just where I am and what I feel…

FASHION RECESSION

These past weeks had been very busy for me. I met up with a lot of old friends. Most have come home to Cebu after years of living and working outside the country. Others just visited Cebu for vacation. There was a lot of getting together, catching up on each other’s lives, and trying to reconnect threads of yester years.

I may have overbooked myself that I am now afflicted with a terrible flu. Thank goodness though that it’s not the H1N1 type, just the more common type which one gets whenever we lack sleep and rest. This is quite a price to pay for a fledging social butterfly.

Anyway, after countless get together, I noticed that whenever I meet friends with whom I have not seen for quite a while, there are 3 questions that I can now expect to be asked.

First question-----How are you? Usually this includes my family too.

Second question----How’s business?

And third but not least---How’s the recession affecting fashion?

There are of course variations to these questions, but the theme is pretty much the same.

I also used to give varied answers depending on my state of mind that day, but as this had been asked of me countless times, quite automatically I’ve been noticing myself ready with repeated answers. Answers which are pretty much like the pre-programmed responses on answering machines which I just hope none of my friends have noticed.

So, to spill the beans, here are the million dollar answers to these questions…..

Question number 1: How are you?

My answer to question number one largely depends on the breakfast I ate that day and of which side of the bed I woke up with.

The answer varies from “Okay, I’m doing well” to “I’m doing great”. Because I believe in positive thinking and of self-prophecy (one tends to act out what he or she earlier predicted or declared), I seldom give a negative answer.

There are days though when I really do feel terrible and in such rare instance, I would most likely just say “Okay ra”.

I believe that no matter how we feel or what our state of mind is, we still have a lot of blessings to be thankful for. It is just but right to focus on the positive rather than the negative.

Question number 2: How’s business?

Well, quite emphatically, I would answer that “Business is fine and only because of God’s grace” and that’s the undeniable truth.

Most business people veer away from the discussion of GOD. I once had been interviewed by a famous local business magazine and the writer who later became a very good friend of mine, once told me that she cannot put too much emphasis on GOD’s miracles in our business. As she is writing for a business magazine, she needs to write about clear and tangible business practices which led to our success.

While I know she and the magazine she works for, meant well. I cannot quite discount the fact, that apart from GOD, we really cannot do anything. Our company started really small, a measly sum of P200,000. This amount is really nothing considering that we put up a manufacturing company targeting the mid to high end market. At that time, no bank would grant us a loan as we have nothing to use as collateral.

That was 7 years ago and while the company is not immune to financial strains, to reach this far is a simple miracle. A grace and favor from GOD.

Now on the third question….

Question no. 3: How is the recession affecting fashion?

Well, this is a bit harder to answer.

For one, unlike food, shelter, or clothing, fashion accessories are definitely not on everyone’s priority list. In fact, this is usually at the bottommost.

For a fashion accessory company like ours, to maintain operations and grow sales when most companies are closing, is really a daunting task.

However it is good to keep in mind that while global economy might be depressed, the fashion accessory industry still remains to be a multi-billion business. While some companies and buyers may want to shift businesses at this time, a lot are actually sticking it out. A lot are riding the tide.

Quite amazingly, in our case, a few of our buyers have actually expanded their fashion accessory businesses.

What’s the secret? Well, I believe that the secret is no secret at all. The company who has expanded their business has gotten a good pulse of the business landscape. For fashion jewelry, it’s literally going back to basics. Classic, timeless, elegant, fashion items that doesn’t go out of style and those that offers great value for money are topping the chart.

This is the very same niche that our international brand IMPRESSIONE and local brand ARTIZANS have comfortably settled in for many years now.

I’ve been accused of shamelessly tooting our own horn when promoting our fashion jewelry line and yes, I agree that I do. We do however, walk our talk.

I am just thankful that we made a decision many years back to work on various themes as part of our design philosophy, one which includes the Classics as the biggest and most important among our design themes.

Not only do we develop designs that doesn’t go out of style, but we also make sure that we incorporate materials whose value by itself will certainly increase with the passage of time.

You will find a lot of IMPRESSIONE and ARTIZANS pieces infused with semi-precious stones, fresh water pearls, swarovski crystals and lots more.

ARTIZANS fashion accessory pieces may be had for a reasonable price. An earring for instance, would cost as little as P280 and already using these materials. I think that’s truly value for money!

So, how is the current global economic crisis affecting the fashion industry business?

I really cannot speak for the entire industry, but for the company I work for, it is good.

When most people are struggling to keep ends meet, it’s certainly unwise to invest in disposable fashion items. Classic jewelry pieces made of value added materials is the way to go.

If you are to shop for fashion jewelry as a fashion statement piece, a gift or simply to reward one self, I hope you can consider my 2-cents worth. Shop wisely everyone!